In itself its not big news that bold flavours are being used across the board.  The interest is in whats happening next, and that’s manifesting itself as a return to fusion which you may remember from the 90's.  The issue with 90's fusion was that it became a byword for confusion and over-work.  This time around, with more familiar flavours and a focus on simplicity, the more progressive operators are mixing it up.

In large part its Asian flavours that are driving the sector these days.  That’s because of increasingly familiar ingredients (and population mix), but also because of drastically higher GP which operators love (hello noodles!) and which is one of the reasons for large scale brand roll-out in this area.  But its not just South East Asian flavours, its also South American and both are being exhibited by trends in street foods which has exploded in popularity.  We're also seeing plenty of Indian operators modernising (look at Dishoom and Roti Chai for example) and there's no sign of BBQ going out of fashion.

The fast casual guys have picked up on some of these trends and you can see much higher flavours even in the biggest operators.  For example, the Banh Mi in Pret (then copied by Eat and onwards) and its these faster offers that are as usual providing a challenge to the casual dining fraternity.

So as stronger flavours have become more prevalent, the next extension has been an increase in fusion offers.  In the UK it's driven by innovation and developments in street food principally, and by a translation of restaurant offers in more casual environments such as pubs that is driving experimentation.

With street food we're seeing lots more playing with flavours and you can see plenty of fusion examples in Brick Lane and that’s being reflected in offers such as Mooli's in Soho already. Of course there's plenty of trial going on because there's less risk to the consumer who is buying at a low (ish) price point, and the vendor can swerve menu items which bomb immediately without incurring large costs.

In terms of wellness, Increasing concern over salt and bad stuff, and the publication of such, has driven chefs to look at a wider variety of ingredients to replicate flavours being lost in the name of health.  By its nature then, umami rich foods are coming on-trend and being mixed up in a variety of different foods and, mixed across different cuisines.  Umamicatessan in LA is being widely copied (as are there burger restaurants) and is worth a look, as is the work that Heston has done on BA's airline food. 

Consumers born after Top Gun came out (known as Millenials or Gen Y) are much more likely to see fusion as a good idea.  That’s because this generation are having to hack their way to success (in terms of employment, career progression, IT etc) and therefore recognise and reward operators doing the same.  There are two other dynamics in play here, one being an element of backlash against tradition meaning they may be more inclined to trial.  The other impact is what MTV refer to as faux-nostalgia (looking back to an era that may not have actually existed) and fusion food has resonance here.

There's also some crossover from molecular gastronomy driving this, but its not that significant as in this recessionary environment its still seen as out of place and unnecessary to a point..  Noma's recognition with Heston's Waitrose line-up (and TV work) and continued El Bulli fame keeps it on the agenda and some of this finds it way to menus (mainly poprocks mixed with both sweet and savoury and some dirtt) but watch out for this coming flying back thanks to chefs such as Jason Atherton and Ben Spalding,

Where to go and look at it

Beard to tail in Shoreditch and Kopappa in Soho are both worth a look, Pollen Street and John Salt too.  In the US, which has far more examples, you could do worse than look at the amazing Pubbelly in Miami beach, an Asian gastropub which sounds a little leftfield but is fantastic.  Also, Red Farm in NY, famous for its Katz pastrami egg rolls; Good Girl Dinette in LA or maybe try Underbelly in San Diego.

Finally, watch out for stronger flavours in drinks.  Meat infused/fat infused drinks (Hawksmoor), new wave vermouths (which were actually old) and higher % craft beers are all on the way.